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Engineering
The discipline, art, skill and profession of applying scientific knowledge and principles to the design and manufacturing of machines, structures, devices, systems, materials and processes.
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Engineering > Coastal engineering 
refraction of water waves
Engineering; Coastal engineering
(1) The process by which the direction of a wave moving in shallow water at an angle to the contours is changed: the part of the wave advancing in shallower water moves more ...
cycloidal wave
Engineering; Coastal engineering
A steep, symmetrical wave whose crest forms an angle of 120 degrees and whose form is that of a cycloid. A trochoidal wave of maximum steepness. See also trochoidal wave.
diffusion
Engineering; Coastal engineering
The distributing or spreading-out of molecules, atoms, or substances into a vacuum, fluid, or porous medium so that the concentration equalizes in all parts of the system
downwelling
Engineering; Coastal engineering
A downward movement (sinking) of surface water caused by onshore Ekman transport, converging currents, or when a water mass becomes more dense than the surrounding water.
marigram
Engineering; Coastal engineering
A graphic record of the rise and fall of the tide. The record is in the form of a curve in which time is represented by abscissas and the height of the tide by ordinates.
wave period
Engineering; Coastal engineering
The time for a wave crest to traverse a distance equal to one wavelength. The time for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point. See also significant wave period.
alluvial deposits
Engineering; Coastal engineering
Detrital material which is transported by a river and deposited – usually temporarily – at points along the flood plain of a river. Commonly composed of sands and gravels.
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