People from all over China congregate in the capital, and they have one thing in common: a desire for the tastes of their hometowns. Exploring restaurants devoted to all of China's regional cuisines would be a tall order, but you might start with one of the most famous cuisines, Sichuanese, by seeking out this classic dish, also known as kung po chicken. The authentic version is light-years away from that served in most Western Chinese restaurants (usually called kung pao). Try the canteen run by the Sichuanese government office (Number 5 Gongyuan Alley, off Jianguomen Nei Street, Dongcheng District) for a lip-tinglingly spicy rendition.